Guides · Buying

Buying a used EV: the battery checks that matter

Modern EV batteries degrade far less than the fear suggests — typically 10–15% over 150,000km — but one abused pack can poison a bargain. Here's how to check before you pay.

Last verified: 5 October 2026

What the data actually shows

Real-world fleet data — thousands of high-km EVs — shows degradation is fastest in year one (a few percent), then flattens to roughly 1% per year. The horror stories almost always involve a specific defect, extreme heat without thermal management, or a first-generation Nissan Leaf. Modern liquid-cooled packs are boringly durable.

The checks, in order of importance

  • State-of-health report: OBD dongle + model-appropriate app gives a SoH percentage on most Teslas, Hyundais, Kias and MGs. 90%+ is healthy; below 85% needs an explanation.
  • Warranty transfer: confirm the 8yr battery warranty transfers to you and check the capacity floor clause.
  • Charging history clues: a car that lived on DC fast charging isn't automatically damaged, but ask. Consistent home AC charging is the gentlest life.
  • Service records: software updates matter for battery management — a car three updates behind is a yellow flag.
  • Physical: underbody scrapes near the pack. Walk away from anything with a battery-case repair history unless discounted hard.

The price logic

Used EV prices fell hard through 2024–25 and have stabilised. The market now prices degradation in crudely: a 4-year-old EV at 88% SoH selling for 55% of new is often the value sweet spot. Cross-check against our new-car pages — when a new MG4 is $33,990 drive-away, a used one needs to be meaningfully cheaper to justify losing warranty years.

Frequently asked questions

Ask for a state-of-health report. Many models expose SoH via an OBD dongle and a free app; some sellers will provide a dealer battery report. Budget $50 for your own dongle if you're shopping seriously — it pays for itself on the first car you walk away from.

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